Posted this in the chat box but I figure maybe more people see it here. I only found about these today, they were posted about 5 months ago.

Basic Soldering Lessons. It looks like it's their actual teaching video tape from the '70 - '80 but imho very few things in the lessons are outdated and there's plenty of quality information with demonstrations, so I'm sure someone will find these interesting. As a bonus they also have a series of videos titled 'Rework and Repair for Electronics', here's lesson 1.

You can watch the rest on youtube if interested. I noticed that Pace recommend using an abrasive containing rubber stick for cleaning components and track, A far better tool to my mind as it does not leave bits of rubber and grit afterwards, and the one that I use is a watchmakers glass-fiber pen. These are a pen like device which houses an extendable densely packed glass-fiber brush, a few rubs with this and the metal comes up gleaming without leaving any crud behind. These pen brushes also used to be used by draftsmen years ago for erasing ink on tracing paper. I noticed that Pace recommend using an abrasive containing rubber stick for cleaning components and track, A far better tool to my mind as it does not leave bits of rubber and grit afterwards, and the one that I use is a watchmakers glass-fiber pen. These are a pen like device which houses an extendable densely packed glass-fiber brush, a few rubs with this and the metal comes up gleaming without leaving any crud behind. These pen brushes also used to be used by draftsmen years ago for erasing ink on tracing paper.

I've ordered both the little 'goot' liquid flux and the 'amt' rma flux. 'goot' flux is an utter crap. It is liquid and spills all over the pcb. It actually doesn't wet the solder pads and forms drops. Such drop literally explodes when touched with a tip. There is no brush or other applicator. It causes solder joints to be matte instead of shiny (as they should be). Samsung yp k3 driver for mac free.

Apply the solder. Touch the end of the solder to the joint so that it contacts both the solder pad and the component lead or pin. It should melt and flow smoothly onto both the pin and the pad. If the solder does not flow, heat the joint for another second or two and try again.

It produces badly smelling and irritating fumes. Also leaves nasty residue on the pcb. I don't recommend that. 'amt' flux which i got is a fake one with spelling errors (state of Cofomia and the like).

Despite being an obvious copy it works quite good, for what i do. I'll have yet to test it with something more serious like.5 or.4 mm pitch QFP. My only concern is that the actual composition of that flux is totally unknown, so it may contain some highly toxic chemicals. I also wonder if the true AMT company is doing something to remove these counterfeit products from the market. I've ordered both the little 'goot' liquid flux and the 'amt' rma flux. 'goot' flux is an utter crap. It is liquid and spills all over the pcb.

It actually doesn't wet the solder pads and forms drops. Such drop literally explodes when touched with a tip.

There is no brush or other applicator. It causes solder joints to be matte instead of shiny (as they should be). It produces badly smelling and irritating fumes. Also leaves nasty residue on the pcb.

I don't recommend that. 'amt' flux which i got is a fake one with spelling errors (state of Cofomia and the like).

Twinklecam pro dc 2120 driver for mac free. Despite being an obvious copy it works quite good, for what i do. I'll have yet to test it with something more serious like.5 or.4 mm pitch QFP.

My only concern is that the actual composition of that flux is totally unknown, so it may contain some highly toxic chemicals. I also wonder if the true AMT company is doing something to remove these counterfeit products from the market.